Art Supply Thread

[Anonymous No.7156219]

Last one: >>7121414
A bad sharpener will slow you down and ruin your pencils.
A good sharpener is like a fresh breath of air, such as pic.

[Anonymous No.7156222]

I got a G-pen and a nib holder. I've been using it and it's pretty cool, the only thing I dislike is that you can't throw a line on any direction you want.

[Anonymous No.7156227]

>>7156219
I use a knife

[Anonymous No.7156229]

>>7156227
What if you cut yourself

[Anonymous No.7156241]

>>7156229
>cut yourself
NGMI, true artists can sharpen their pencils with a knife eyes closed.

[Anonymous No.7156350]

>>7156219
i love that sharpener, it does eat (more than alternatives) pencils though.

[Anonymous No.7156376]

>>7156219
I wish they made these in steel. The plastic just gets clunky after a few years of use, and easily breaks. I'd pay good money for a full steel or brass version...

[Anonymous No.7156387]

Bought some of pic related off of aliexpress to see
if there's much of a difference between the pro and the academy version. If it's good I'm tempted to buy some if their larger rolls for like 30$. Hopefully not a scam.
>>7156219
These are really good but the blades in mine rusted after a few months so I can;t decide whether or not I should buy a new one.

[Anonymous No.7156411]

Asking again: what's a good mechanical eraser? Preferably something closer to the discontinued PaperMate Erase-It than the smaller Tombow types, but I'll take anything as long as it works well.

[Anonymous No.7156543]

>>7156411
You mean a click eraser? I just use a Staedtler mars plastic 528 50, I like this one because the erasers don't break.

[Anonymous No.7156561]

>>7156227
I'm not gonna pull out a knife in a cafe, I would throw shavings all over the place!

[Anonymous No.7156567]

>>7156219
>using a pencil you need to sharpen
>not taking the mechanical pencil pill
NGMI

[Anonymous No.7156630]

>>7156567
I have mechanical pencils and soft and hard leads, but I also use colored pencils for sketching, so I need a sharpener. Besides, I kinda hate sketching with mechanical pencils. I still do it, but I like it less.

[Anonymous No.7156723]

what kind of mechanical pencils work BEST for drawing? what kind are unacceptable? how do sleeves and wobbly tip/anti-break factor in?

[Anonymous No.7156728]

>>7156723
avoid gimmicks like anti breaking and auto feeding or auto sharpen

[Anonymous No.7156735]

>>7156728
so just a normal drafting pencil?

[Anonymous No.7156777]

>>7156735
yeah, Pentel Sharp is an all time favourite for many people but I find a thicker pencil more comfortable so I use the Dr Grip

[Anonymous No.7156790]

>>7156777
>Pentel Sharp
does the size matter?

also with the Dr. Grip, is the shaker okay?

[Anonymous No.7156861]

>>7156790
it depends on what you use it for, 0.5 is most popular. As for the shaker I don't think it has any advantages over just pressing the button so I just don't use it

[Anonymous No.7156944]

>>7156723
All that matters is that they're fixed sleeve, and they don't have gimmicks like shakers or the kuru toga.
Other than that it's up to your preference but imo the Pentel P20X and Graphgear 500 lines are the most comfortable and reliable.

[Anonymous No.7156954]

>>7156723
Staedler 2mm lead holder

[Anonymous No.7157467]

>>7156561
Ideally something like this would be available in a more utilitarian, less pretentious form. It peels the pencil the same way a knife would but the little box catches the shavings.

Honestly I’m kind of 50/50 on knife sharpening. Once you learn how to do it it’s pretty much strictly superior to regular sharpeners, and once you get really good at it you can even smooth out the cuts and make the pencils look good instead of carved up. But on the other hand it takes way longer (big deal if you’re sharpening a Prismacolor set or something like that), you need to have something to catch the shavings with, and it’s a pretty repetitive motion (so it strains your thumbs). Also in this clown world even pulling out a pocket knife or such in public might get somebody shrieking at you, so it’s normie-unfriendly.

[Anonymous No.7157492]

Redpill me on Artemiranda
Looks shady as shit but I dont see anyone complaining about it

[Anonymous No.7157536]

>>7157467
Shit like that is how you know the action has become a ritual/fetish.

I too used to be a snob about sharpening with a blade but then I started using mechanical pencils more, and sharpening my colored pencils with an electric sharpener.

Then I realized I don't draw in atelier style on a full sheet of cheap parer propped on a canvas, so the extended side of the lead you get with knife sharpening was never useful.

[Anonymous No.7157555]

>>7157492
>shady
Looks like a pretty normal art store to me? The prices don't look crazy to me, you're just getting EU prices for European art supplies. If you look at something that's imported to Spain, like Prismacolor, the prices spike the same way euro art supplies spike in price over here.

[Anonymous No.7157560]

Someone should invent refillable fineliners or constant width dip pens.

[Anonymous No.7157562]

>>7157560
>refillable fineliners
Copic had those but they're discontinued. Honestly I don't think it's a bad idea to think about investing in fountain pens if you want fixed line widths and refillable ink.

[Anonymous No.7157576]

>>7157562
>>7157560
Basically tech pens fill that niche, they have less variation than a fineliner but a) it's not that different than a felt tip pen and b) you're directly applying ink to the paper, which is why fineliner ink looks "off" sometimes. But they are a chore to maintain, however you can use tech pen ink with dip pens and refillable brush pens like the Pentel Pocket Brush with no problem. I don't reccomend fountain pens because FP ink tends to be pretty bad, it's often non archival and the ink isn't as intense. But at the end of the day... just stick to Microns. It's the cheapest and most comfortable alternative, they're perfectly good pens and you'll do good stuff with them.

[Anonymous No.7157598]

>>7157560
They're called rapidographs, are insanely easy to break and you have to use ink specially formulated for them that's only still produced by Parker, Rotring and Staedtler and hard to find offline unless you live near an architecture school.

[Anonymous No.7157622]

>>7157576
>FP ink tends to be pretty bad
as an FP geek I'll just say that FP ink is for journaling and writing non-archival letters.

[Anonymous No.7157733]

>>7156543
I mean an eraser with a clutch advance, like pic related. Though they're also called click erasers in certain markets.

>>7156723
In my experience medium pencils with slim-to-medium sleeves are more comfortable and functional. A Pentel Twist-Erase III has been my go-to since 2009 and it hasn't let me down yet. It's also the only break resistant pencil that actually works as advertised, though as others said it's not a necessary feature.

[Anonymous No.7157894]

>>7157598
Koh I Noor and Rotring's drawing ink is pretty much available everywhere even in my 3rd world shithole. Rotring stopped producing the big bottles of it, but KIN still has them available. Rotring discontinued rapidographs in favor of isographs, but iirc KIN, Staedtler and Faber Castell still produce rapidographs (even though they are technically isographs, due to he way you refill them).

>>7157622
Yeah it's great for writing, I had one. But it's just not good for drawing.

[Anonymous No.7157896]

>>7157576
>>7157622
I see people almost exclusively use fountain pens for art on YouTube though, most notable probably being Peter Han

[Anonymous No.7157902]

>>7157733
I have that one as well but it's made by Sakura, you can still find that model but sold by other brands. I prefer the Staedtler one and its erasers over anything else, the erasers don't break like the Pentel ones for example.

[Anonymous No.7157949]

>>7157902
This one.

[Anonymous No.7158044]

>>7157896
Those people don't care about their art lasting longer than the making of their video since they're entertainers, not artists.

[Anonymous No.7158054]

>>7157896
>>7158044
Most of them use it because it feels like a pencil, but it's an ink tool. They're making sketches they'll throw to the bin later.

[Anonymous No.7158058]

>>7157733
>>7157949
I've been devling into this for a while.
Basically there's two kinds of mechanical eraser, clutch erasers like the Rotring here, and click erasers like the Staedtler here.

The difference is the clicks have notches so you can only extend the eraser by notch sizes and when it comes to the end of the notches you waste like 1/2" of eraser.
The clutch erasers like a clutch pencil you can just press the button and let the eraser fall as long or short as you want and so long as there's a little bit the clutch can hang to you can be as miserly with your eraser as you want.

An extra advantage of clutch erasers is you can sharpen the eraser with a pencil sharpener and get a nice point. This doesn't work with click erasers because the hole is static and when the eraser is slimmer than the hole it wobbles like a bitch.
An extra disadvantage of click erasers is they only take click eraser sticks, they have a little bump at the end so they can snap to the carrier button. Clutch erasers can take any standard size stick eraser including click eraser sticks.

Personally my favorite stick erasers are the Sumo Grip if you don't mind non-standard sticks and the Sakura Nocks for a standard stick clutch.

[Anonymous No.7158062]

>>7158044
>>7158054
Han has piles of sketchbooks drawn with fountain pens though

[Anonymous No.7158087]

Fineliners are uncomfortable since you have to hold them mostly upright, and they feel like shit because you are scrubbing a plastic sponge across paper. The problem is that they have such a useful combination of properties - many sizes, dry instantly, waterproof and lightfast.

There are archnival fountain pen inks if you need them, and most blacks/browns are lightfast even in dye form.

[Anonymous No.7158170]

>>7157560
All fineliners are refillable if you take the nib off, you can dramatically extend their lifespan this way and keep using them until the nib dies

[Anonymous No.7158803]

>>7156219
What's the best blender and burnishing pencils for colored pencil?
I'm just gorilla gripping pencils together right now but it feels wasteful.

[Anonymous No.7158835]

>>7157949
those eraser pens are silly . all you need is a regular square eraser. it does everything. staedtler is good though.

[Anonymous No.7158871]

>>7156219
this sharpener should be remade into Steel by Germans or Americans.

The Japanese company that made these market these to exclusively Japanese 20+ yo women.

[Anonymous No.7158957]

>>7156561
You could whittle your pencil in the urinal.

>>7157467
>>7157536
If I were doing a whole prismacolor set from flat, I would sharpen them all with a sharpener first. But for the few pencils I use for sketching, I sharpen with a knife. It allows you to get exactly what you want and lead never breaks if you aren’t retarded. I did this before I ever heard about that atelier shit.

[Anonymous No.7158960]

>>7158087
>fineliners are uncomfortable since you have to hold them mostly upright
For this reason, I prefer a somewhat larger size (0.2, 0.3). Used with decent speed and finesse, lines can be quite fine. You can use them at a much sharper angle than a 0.05.

[Anonymous No.7159431]

>>7158871
If It was "made in América" it would be trash steel from Vietnam and cost $60

[Anonymous No.7159799]

>>7158170
Only if you have good ink tho.
I filled a Micron with india ink and it worked for two hours then clogged and became useless.
Others I filled with liquid watercolor and fountain pen ink did work.

[Anonymous No.7159900]

>>7158058
Thanks. Everything you listed is exactly why I'm so interested in them.

>Personally my favorite stick erasers are the Sumo Grip if you don't mind non-standard sticks and the Sakura Nocks for a standard stick clutch.

I actually looked into those before, but it seems like the Sumo Grip was discontinued and is unavailable online, and the Sakura Nocks are just as rare. Unless there's some sites I'm not aware of.

>>7158835
>Precision is silly
Sure, you could always cut up a block eraser and carve it to your preferences, but not everyone wants to do that.

[Anonymous No.7159930]

I got my Maru nibs in the mail today.

[Anonymous No.7159984]

>>7159900
Yeah the Sakura Nocks is only available in Japan and fucking Malaysia and Phillipines it seems.

I got mine from Aliexpress in a 3 pack for $10 plus $5 shipping or something. Which is way more than the 400 yen a piece they cost, but unless you're gonna go wandering into Ginza Itoya anytime soon, it's acceptable to scratch off that itch.

Since they're three different colors I color coded my eraser shape. The red sharpened to a point, the blue cut into a chisel and the black rounded off by use.

[Anonymous No.7159997]

I was told Crayola are good training pencils for the Polychromos since they're hard cored and need to be layered to get good coverage.

Is that true or am I getting crabbed?

[Anonymous No.7160017]

My kneaded eraser keeps leaving gray shit on my paper

[Anonymous No.7160024]

>>7160017
Do you just roll it across your paper like a fool? May be a little humid in your location. The oil in the kneaded eraser can clog the paper pores I believe.

[Anonymous No.7160369]

>>7160017
You licked it, didn't you?

[Anonymous No.7160670]

I got stadler noris coloured pencils as a gift how good are they?
I am using them and they seem ok but I am not good with colored pencils so is there any tutorial on colored pencils?

[Anonymous No.7160672]

>>7159930
Nice. Just ordered myself some new nibs as well.
Wanted to try something different than my G nibs or my Tama's. Probably not going to bother using the pen holders though since I have plenty and the plastic Speedball ones feel uncomfortable.

[Anonymous No.7160690]

anyone use these watercolor 'inks' I know Toriyama was a fan, but I'm not sure how different it is to normal watercolor.

[Anonymous No.7160691]

>>7158054
how the fuck does a fountain pen feel like a pencil?

[Anonymous No.7160694]

>>7160670
They're student grade so hard and lightly pigmented. But I like the colors and mostly use them for sketching and details.

You won't be able to get decent hyperrealistic drawings out of them but they're more than good enough for anime and cartoony styles imo

[Anonymous No.7160736]

>>7160690
They're called liquid watercolors but they're not pigment based, they're just color dyes, similar to Copics.

[Anonymous No.7160779]

>>7160690
I had a one a few years ago. It wasn't very pigmented and it wasn't lightfast, which was a problem made worse from the bottle itself
being clear so that when I went to paint with it the result was a washed out, dilluted look. Traditional watercolor is a much better product and I'd buy smoother paper if you wanted the look of the liquid variety (or maybe markers if you like the look of colored manga).

[Anonymous No.7160983]

>>7160779
Thing is illustrators don't care about lightfastness.
They're gonna go through those bottles in a month and their work is getting scanned immediately after completion to then be put in a binder in the office never to be seen again.

Artists care about lightfastness because the originals are the product, illustrators don't because the art is for a mass market reproduction product.

So if you want intense colors to photograph/scan and maybe sell prints of, stop worrying about that shit. Copics, dyes and cheap color pencils have bright bold colors that no lightfast product can imitate.

If you want your work to last 300 years stop being dumb and do oils.

[Anonymous No.7161062]

>>7160983
>Thing is illustrators don't care about lightfastness.
Fair enough. But it still doesn't seem worth it when the bottle I bought wasn't very pigmented when it was new. At that point I'd unironically suggest buying printer ink bottles instead. It's
a better value to buy a CMYK set than it would be to buy a dozen tiny bottles for 80 dollars.

[Anonymous No.7161215]

>>7160983
the flip side is that you don't actually need bright bold colors for reproductions in 2024 because the tech is better and you can just adjust whatever you want digitally with zero effort or cost so in practical terms you gain nothing and lose the original

[Anonymous No.7161385]

Outside of flourescents, modern chemistry has a complete range of lightfast pigments with sear-your-eyes level chroma.

Water or alcohol soluble dyes are still a problem but there is no barrier for any other medium to not be completely lightfast.

The truth iis that 98% of art supplies are using color recepies from 80 years ago and if anything changes artists will sperg out and throw a nuclear level tantrum.

[Anonymous No.7161489]

>>7161385
doubt.jpg
materials get worse all the time and there are entire pigments that are a different color now because the original site got mined out and the new one's a different color
at worst there'd be a few years of mild annoyance

[Anonymous No.7161615]

>>7161489
Shit ton of paint has changed just because it was mildly poisonous.
And yet they feed us flouride in water.

[Anonymous No.7161621]

>>7161615
I can't believe they took away uranium yellow, ganda and cadmium are fucking shit. SHIT!

[Anonymous No.7161623]

>>7161615
I can't believe they took away uranium yellow, hansa and cadmium are fucking shit. SHIT!

[Anonymous No.7161629]

Thoughts on these? I got a 12b and it really is (almost) matt, what's the catch?

[Anonymous No.7161634]

>>7161615
> And yet they feed us flouride in water.
Birth control pill residues are known to affect the male to female ratio in fish population in rivers...

> Nature: so you want to have the joy of sex without those pesty kids???
> lemme fuck things up a little

[Anonymous No.7161652]

>>7161629
More coal less clay.

[Anonymous No.7161667]

>>7161652
Is that a bad thing? It's not any darker than my regular pencils, it's observably grey, just less shiny.

[Anonymous No.7161675]

>>7161215
Also this. There's no point in using an inferior product if you don't have to.

[Anonymous No.7161772]

>>7161667
That's... the whole purpose of this line of pencil: to be less shiny.

I've got a few of those but haven't toyed with them just yet. I don't have a really high B though.

[Anonymous No.7161843]

>>7161629
They aren't matte, pointless endeavor.

[Anonymous No.7161917]

>>7161629
I have the tin with the full range. They’re noticeably waxier, >>7161652 is brain damaged, this isn’t a carbon pencil, the matte effect is clearly a product of adding more wax to the binder. Besides the feel of the pencil you can see this by comparing papers, the toothier the paper the more binder gets stuck in the tooth along with the graphite, the more matte your lines become. On smooth paper or cardstock it’s only marginally less shiny than regular graphite.

Anyway, they’re okay. I like the thicker, softer cores, the deeper blacks when you get to 10-12-14b, and the matte effect. I can’t get used to the waxy laydown though, it feels too much like colored pencil compared to the regular Castell 9000s, which go down silky smooth. You also run through them way faster than the regular 9000s, because the cores are so soft. An HB 9000 will last me 2+ months of daily drawing until it’s a nub, the Matt version will last half of that.

Oh and of course if you like harder ranges forget about them, these only go down to HB, and the half-tin of 6 starts at 2b.

[Anonymous No.7162010]

Niggas, what's a good electrical (horizontal) sharpener bellow 100€?

>>7160690
I'ts going to be really fun when in a matter of a couple of years these people check back on their drawings and everything faded away.

>7161629
anon, think, please think.
How is a pencil made of graphite matte?
Graphite is shinny anon! Just means it's graphite mixed with something else, so it really isn't graphite!

[Anonymous No.7162026]

>>7156219
My beloved.
With a Pilot Precise V5 for my ballpoint.

[Anonymous No.7162063]

>>7159984
Thanks for the heads up. Never used Aliexpress before, but I'm definitely checking this out.

[Anonymous No.7162082]

>>7162026
brush mogs the hardtip fudenosuke

[Anonymous No.7162148]

>>7162063
The trick is to check the store's page before ordering.
Ali is like Amazon. And just like Amazon, if the store you're buying from is a stationery store with stationery stuff at good but realistic prices, it's legit. If the store you're buying from is full of random novelty/luxury shit at absurd prices, it's a scam.

[Anonymous No.7162298]

>>7160690
if you are willing to pay a bit more, you should go for acrylic inks. Pic rel I use regularly for almost everything. They layer better, are lightfast, and can be used inside of pens for details. The best brand in the market is ROHRER & KLINGNER, but they are way too out of my budget. I have one of their reds

[Anonymous No.7163115]

>>7156387
Paper arrived today. So far it's pretty nice. It has a rougher texture, it's 1/4 inch larger and is a touch whiter than the academy. Outside of that they're pretty much identical. Can't say one performs better than the other or anything. I'll probably buy the rolls when I run out. Solid purchase.

[Anonymous No.7163167]

>half off Windsor Newton Series 7 Brushes on Amazon
Holy shit

[Anonymous No.7163172]

>>7156241
Yes.
Every 1st years art student are required to use a knife to sharpening pencil. That's the first lesson of sculpting.
If your art school doesn't do that, they are fake.

[Anonymous No.7163341]

what ink is actually water and copic proof? Deleter lies there #4 is not copic proof if you are using anything but a very fine nib.

I want to layer large areas with a brush and not get smear.

[Anonymous No.7163391]

>>7163167
>doesn't ship to europe

[Anonymous No.7163685]

>>7163341
India Ink but you have to make sure it's 100% dry.
Some artists leave their art out overnight just to be sure, though if you're impatient you could use a hair dryer to speed up the process.

[Anonymous No.7163809]

>>7163167
>>7163167
Link or exact name? I cant find it. or it just doesnt show the discount to me

[Anonymous No.7164824]

thoughts on ohuhu markers?

[Anonymous No.7164840]

>>7157467
this shit is way to expensive
is there an alternative?

[Anonymous No.7164854]

>>7164840
A normal fucking sharpener.
Be real you never use the side of the lead. And if you do, get a lead holder instead.

[Anonymous No.7164863]

>>7164854
agreed, i used to get decent sharpeners but then i got one that was school supply tier and it worked wonders. if you ink your art it literally doesn't matter. and if it's a sketchbook, it's likely that you're using that pencil for linework anyways.
If that's not good enough just get any box cutter.

[Anonymous No.7164876]

>>7164840
If you want a lot of lead exposed KUM sharpeners are good for that, but they do have a problem where
the holes for the screws get stripped overtime and you can't take the blade out to replace it. This happened to 2 of my sharpeners but the one side that still works is useful for long points.

[Anonymous No.7164899]

>>7164840
just get a box of industrial razor blades for $10, it will last you a decade, they carve pencils easily, fit in a wallet, sketchbook cover, pocket or wherever and don't draw attention
I have no idea why people use knives and other bulky shit

[Anonymous No.7164965]

>>7164824
Don't waste your money. They're pretty bad unless you just need a generic sketchbook marker and don't want to go whole hog on Copics

[Anonymous No.7165254]

Is it possible to do a beautiful graphite rendering on printer paper, or do I have to work on nicer paper? If so, what nice paper do you recommend? Graphite pencil recommendations?

[Anonymous No.7165269]

>>7165254
Sanded paper

[Anonymous No.7165326]

>>7165254
strathmore drawing is fine, 400 series

[Anonymous No.7165329]

>>7165269
>>7165326
thank you frens

[Anonymous No.7165934]

>>7165254
>Is it possible to do a beautiful graphite rendering on printer paper
It is, but get yourself some strathmore paper or similar. It's not so expensive, and will do the job.

The trick for fine graphite drawing, besides proportions, is in the technique you use to handle the graphite. Look around for Bargue plate tutorials, they usually cover the basics.

Don't try working from a photo just yet

[Anonymous No.7167284]

The Caran d'Ache blender is the best I've tested so far.

[Anonymous No.7168106]

Does anyone know if sharpeners/pointers for 1.3mm lead exist? There are 2mm pointers and sharpeners for jumbo pencils, but I've never seen anything for this size.

[Anonymous No.7168163]

>>7168106
Smooth sand paper.

[Anonymous No.7169196]

Ded thread
Ded board
Ded hobby

[Anonymous No.7169374]

What is the absolute cheapest way to get non-shit paper?

[Anonymous No.7169415]

>>7169374
meaning what

[Anonymous No.7169417]

>>7169415
Just not copy paper/printer paper.

[Anonymous No.7169422]

>>7169417
that literally means nothing, nodraw retard

[Anonymous No.7169463]

>>7169374
If you’re just practicing and not really saving drawings for posterity there’s no reason not to just use a big fat roll of Kraft paper or newsprint.

Beyond that, at any paper quality reams of 100+ sheets will always be less expensive than buying sketchbooks.

[Anonymous No.7169537]

>>7169374
>>7169463
speaking of which, i use newsprint for sketching but I want to start doing Robertson's book which requires ballpoint pen. Printer paper sucks ass to draw on so what is a good alternative (preferable larger than a4 something like 11x17 or 12x18)

I'm thinking deleter manga paper would be a decent alternative but curious what others use. Bonus if it is also pretty good with graphite.

[Anonymous No.7169538]

>>7169463
What's a good source of large newsprint for cheap? Can you just use packing paper?

[Anonymous No.7169540]

>>7169538
you can get rolls which is dirt cheap, but for a little extra pads of newsprint 50 - 100 count are like $5 and you can technically draw on both sides if you are super frugal.

[Anonymous No.7169543]

>>7169540
seriously though if you are like > newsprint is too expensive, stop now and get a tablet. Trad isn't for you.

[Anonymous No.7169574]

I use a lot of printer paper with graphite for practice and there's nothing wrong with it

[Anonymous No.7169813]

>>7169537
Bristol. Buy sheets and cut them yourself.

For cheap sketchbooks I just fold a dozen printer paper sheets in half and staple them together. 90gsm bond goes for $5 a ream.

[Anonymous No.7169820]

>>7169813
i do love bristol the pads are just expensive so I use it for finished work. how do you cut them cleanly, just a box cutter and a ruler?

[Anonymous No.7169951]

Copic or posca markers? Or some third brand?

[Anonymous No.7169963]

>>7169951
ive only seen posca be used for white out or highlights on top of marker/ink/colored pencil, not sure anyone does illustration work w/ them like they do copics.

its also a totally different medium acrylic paint vs alcohol ink, and copic has 300 more colors or so.

[Anonymous No.7169964]

>>7169813
>>7169820
what sheets are you buying the only semi affordable thing compared to pads is rolls but then the paper has a heavy bend.

[Anonymous No.7169988]

What’s a good gouache set? I’m tempted to get this one

[Anonymous No.7170000]

>>7169988
himi gouache works pretty well but you have to be careful, it can be very toxic. I had to drop a few colours that smelled too chemical and would give me headaches. Also they go moldy easily

[Anonymous No.7170014]

>>7170000
So I should have an open window then? Also how do I keep it fresh to not be moldy? It’s my first time using gouache.

[Anonymous No.7170040]

>>7169988
It's alright as a starter but they have too much fillers and some colors dry dull and others will fade.

[Anonymous No.7170057]

>>7170040
Would it be better if it’s in a tube?

[Anonymous No.7170072]

>>7169988
I'd go for a primary set instead;learning to mix colors is crucial. Pebeo has an okay one, but there are other brands; just don't go for the cheapest.

No weird chemical smell either.

>>7170014
> Also how do I keep it fresh to not be moldy
Mold will depend upon the pigment, local climate, water quality, and probably other random things. Letting the paint dry usually works: don't try hold it fresh by airtighting it once it's out of the tube. If you paint daily, the paint will never fully dry, and you'll be able to rewet it easily.

If it's hard rock dry, you need to work the paint a little bit with a palette knife and water until it goes back to an acceptable consistency.

[Anonymous No.7170081]

>>7170072
Ohhh okay I understand, thank you. !

[Anonymous No.7170156]

>>7169988
>>7170000
Doesn't it say in the picture that the paint is non-toxic though? I"ve never heard of gouache being dangerous outside of certain pigments, it's not like it has heavy fumes like solvents or anything like that. But if you're concerned anon then maybe buy Arteza instead. It's about the same price as HIMI but it comes in tubes so you only need to pour out small amounts at a time.

[Anonymous No.7170212]

>>7169964
Gotta go out dude. My local mom and pop stationery shop sells 200gsm 22x28" sheets for $10

[Anonymous No.7170485]

>>7170212
Like a single sheet? Or how many? Also small businesses are less affordable than the big chains so....

[Anonymous No.7170486]

>>7164876
I'm not gonna pull out a sharpener called KUM in a cafe, everyone will think I'm gay!

[Anonymous No.7170488]

>>7164899
ergonomics mostly

[Anonymous No.7170504]

>>7156723
I have yet to find a better all around pencil for the same price or less

[Anonymous No.7170513]

>>7170504
my man. Graphgear 500 as well as Sakura Sumo Grip are also very based

[Anonymous No.7170524]

Good cheap compact scanner for A4 size?

[Anonymous No.7170525]

>>7170485
20 22x28" sheet packs for $10.
One 22x28" sheet for $0.60.
50 letter size sheet blocks for $8.
You can cut six letter size pieces from the full sheet and will have a chunk of scratch paper too.

Find your city's large mom and pop stationery shops and go browse for options. You'll likely find something that's cheaper or more convenient than whatever you're finding on Amazon. Like sure a ream of letter size bristol for $25 is half what it'd take to get 500 pieces from sheets. But you're spending $25 instead of $0.60 to test a paper you might not like.

[Anonymous No.7170526]

>>7170513
P20X for sketching, GG500 for detailing is the Lord's intended way to use mechanical pencils.

[Anonymous No.7170528]

>might have gotten ink in the ferrule of my WN brush

[Anonymous No.7170636]

Sister bought me a 12-pack of copic sketch markers during her Golden Week vacation for only ~35 burgerbucks! She didn't know which colors to get, but thankfully the silk and light purple colors will go great with my skin color set. The warm/cool greys are nice, too, and did not conflict with my neutral gray 12 pack which cost 55 on amazon...

[Anonymous No.7170638]

Bros I like dry media so much, I wish I had infinite money to buy all the colored pencils and charcoals and fancy japs pencil knives

Maybe I'd cheat a little and buy a set of inktense pencils

[Anonymous No.7170646]

>>7170156
himi gouache are sold directly from china without much quality control.

[Anonymous No.7170789]

>>7170636
Copics aren't expensive, the exportroon mafia makes them expensive.

[Anonymous No.7170805]

>>7170789
The Mafia is actually just copic themself that sets MSRP. But yea buy from Japan I bought loads through a proxy service.

[Anonymous No.7170810]

>>7170504
The chink copied it and sell 20 cents each. Quality is the same.

[Anonymous No.7170825]

>>7170805
what proxy did you use

[Anonymous No.7170865]

>>7170825
Dejapan shipped them, but when I wanted to buy Holbein paint I used blackship. You have to email and ask before ordering for most art supplies

[Anonymous No.7170981]

>>7165934
thanks anon